![]() ![]() I am using a 10% infill, so there is 90% open space inside the model between the interior and exterior walls)This pattern is called gyroid and it provides equal strength in all directions. Infill is used to provide structural support to the model without having to make it solid. ![]() Orange (in these picture it is hard to tell the difference between the yellow and the orange) is the infill material. For this print I made the walls 3 layers thick. Red and Green are the exterior and interior walls of the model. Light blue is support material, plastic that is there to support overhanging parts during printing, it will be removed from the final model once it is done. The layers in the pictures are color coded to show the different parts of the print.ĭark blue shows the path the printerhead will travel. 2mm high layer (about as thick as 2-3 human hairs), so this small model is 65 layers high. There are several free options for slicer programs available, I chose to use Cura.Ī slicer is a program that cuts your 3D model into very thin layers an provides that information to the printer so it can extrude the filament layer by layer to make you item. The hole for the fastening bolt is a 6mm hole centered in the top plate. The top of the plate is 1mm wider than the base in each direction 50mm x 44mm x 5mm. The empty space in the Bottomof the plate to accomodate the bolt to fasten the plate to the camera is 35mm x 30mm. It is placed 3mm above the bottom of the front face, and it is 6mm high. The crescent at the front of the plate to accomodate the quick release lever is a 26mm circle that is set into the front face 7mm deep. 21mm from the back edge and 19mm from the front edge. The notch on each side for the alignment tab is 8mm wide and 4.5mm deep into the side and it is slightly off center. The bottom portion of the plate is 48mm x 42mm x 8mm There are lots of good, free modeling softwares available, I chose to use TinkerCADĪll of the measurements in this project will be in mm since the software I am using has metric as the default settings. Having failed to find a premade design for the plate, and realizing my first attempt at making a plate would never be a useful part, it was time to get out the calipers and measure the heck out of the tripod head.Īfter I measured every part I could think of, It was time to draw a 3D model. If anyone is interested in the setup of the Ender 3 Pro (test prints and parts made to improve the performance and looks of the printer) either leave a comment on this IBLE or send me a message and I will write an IBLE for it. Although I have discovered several cool websites with tons of free 3D models in all sorts of topics. There was no model marking anywhere on the tripod that I could find.Īrmed with that tiny bit of information I tried to find a premade 3D model to use. The only marking on the tripod is the brand name, Sakar. One of the first things I wanted to make was a replacement quick release plate for the one that was missing on a tripod that was given to me. After I got done putting it together and doing the obligatory test printing to make sure it was proper set up and configured, I decided that it was time to start making things. The Printer arrives in a few pieces but goes together very easy. It is an absolutely awesome printer that is super easy to use. ![]() I was recently fortunate enough to acquire an Ender 3 Pro 3D printer. ![]()
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